New York and London influence the world’s fashion choices.
There has always been an underlying rivalry between New York and London, two of the four epicenters of fashion. London gave rise to cultural phenomena such as the teddy boys, the mods, and the rockers. New York’s global influence came in the late 70s, when hip-hop and graffiti exploded onto the scene. Even though these two metropolitan cities dictate the world’s finance and business sectors, some people don’t see that they also dictate our fashion choices.
[pullquote]If I wanted to look at leather jackets, solid white t-shirts, and cardigans I would walk around Vancouver; we’ve already mastered comfort staples.[/pullquote]
Each February and September the fashion industry hosts Fashion Week in the four fashion capitals: New York, London, Milan and Paris. For the past five years, New York has been on top, producing commercial clothing with style and comfort. However, for spring 2013, New York’s continued use of last year’s colour blocking and floral, as well as an overemphasis on staple dressing (t-shirts, jeans, leather jackets, etc) was a disappointment. There weren’t any new designers to get overly excited about. One designer in particular, Custo Barcelona, suggested a new use for bright orange shag carpet. Other designers, like ALP and BLK DNM, played it safe and decided to base collections around staple pieces. Even though the fabrics and construction of the garments in both collections were lux and high quality, the desire for a commercially appealing collection left me bored and uninspired. If I wanted to look at leather jackets, solid white t-shirts, and cardigans I would walk around Vancouver; we’ve already mastered comfort staples.
Then there were the New York designers, who believe they live in a world where women wear cocktail dresses to work and gowns to clubs. Designers like Jenny Packham and Badgley Mischka produced clothes only for celebrities and the ultra-rich. Gown after gown came down the runway without any daytime wear in sight. Even though there were the usual show-stopping, I’m-changing-my-entire-wardrobe collections like Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, and Marc Jacobs, New York can’t continue to rest on their laurels.
[pullquote]Mary Katrantzou used exaggerated prints of stamps, banknotes and geometric lines, which emphasized the seduction of forgotten ancient European cultures.[/pullquote]
While many designers relish the independent outlook of London Fashion Week, their creative freedom largely outweighs their functionality. However, for spring 2013, many young designers in London have found that difficult balance of function and innovation. Recently, some designers who had left London Fashion Week in the past — like Preen, Jonathan Saunders and Matthew Williamson — decided to come back to their old stomping ground. Mary Katrantzou used exaggerated prints of stamps, banknotes and geometric lines, which emphasized the seduction of forgotten ancient European cultures. She favoured the easy silhouettes of shirtdresses, A-lines, sheaths and shifts, which would be great to wear walking along the seawall or sitting on a patio downtown.
Jonathan Saunders, who pioneered the revival of prints in past seasons, simplified his combination of prints by juxtaposing simplistic solid neutrals with metallic lux. While colour blocking and simple prints of stripes and polka dots also played a large role in his collection, a subtle change in the usage of prints relates more to modern women and their lifestyles. Christopher Raeburn, a recent newcomer known for austere parkas made from British Army parachute nylon, produced a utilitarian themed collection, including chic sweatpants made of grosgrain ribbon. His designs are practical and simple yet filled with clever details like tuxedo piping on a track jacket or a laminated-lace jacket.
London designers are beginning to design for modern women. We want clothing for all occasions and all types of weather. We travel through cities, from class to work, to parks and clubs, and we still want to maintain style. London designers are beginning to understand the complexity of our daily lives: while they continue to produce fashion-forward designs, they are keeping our labyrinth of a life in mind.
