One stormy afternoon of discovery in Vancouver’s Chinatown.
By Sara Bohuch
Photos by Sara Bohuch
I’m sitting by the windows of the Tim Hortons on Pender and Abbot, watching the rain pound the pavement outside. Hardly the place one would expect to start a foray into Vancouver’s famous Chinatown, but the coffee is cheap. November has arrived in a wet wad of grey, and I’m aiming to tackle one of the largest Chinatowns in North America, armed only with gumboots and a belly full of caffeine. The goal is simple: scout out the good spots. I finish my coffee and head out.
First stop is the International Village across the street. Some of you might be familiar with this mall due to the movie theatre perched on the top level, but most have never felt the urge to explore the twists and turns of the lower level stores. That would be to your detriment, for the kinds of stores found here are numerous and eclectic. From cashmere (LG Cashmere) to children’s books in Russian (World Kids Books) to hand-painted leather bags (Silk Route Treasure Ltd), there are a million gift options here. One of my favourites has got to be the Japanese dollar store, Yoko Yaya. This place sells everything from kitchen supplies to CD covers, and every time I go in, I pick up something else that I forgot I needed, for a price that agrees with my student budget.
[pullquote] Red maple leaves and green bamboo line the walkways around the massive fish pond, and the small pagoda just off the water is the perfect place to sit and enjoy the surroundings out of the rain.[/pullquote]
I head down the street towards a small black storefront with large yellow letters proclaiming “Erin Templeton”. The smell of leather is strong, bags and accessories being the focal point, with two racks of vintage sweaters and dresses lining the sides. The upscale, quirky decor and the tastefully classical music piping on the speakers are big fat “out of my budget” signs, but I saunter over to the racks anyways. The price tags leave me pleasantly surprised: mixed in with the pricey pieces are items for around $30. I spot a workshop through the door in the back. As it happens, the proprietor, Ms. Templeton herself, uses recycled leather to handcraft all of the different bags and accessories that line the shelves.
One of the most beautiful places in Vancouver is Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden and Park, which must be seen to be believed. Since I am on a budget however, I aim to explore the smaller version next door, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Park, which is free to the public. Even in the storm, the place is stunning, and the urban surroundings make the setting even more remarkable. Red maple leaves and green bamboo line the walkways around the massive fish pond, and the small pagoda just off the water is the perfect place to sit and enjoy the surroundings out of the rain.
I head down to the nearby Artista Gallery, one of the many jewellery shops that set up shop on Pender street. While there are many decently priced pieces made from carnelian, jade, and turquoise, along with strings of pearls hanging from the walls, it’s the prints that catch my eye. In the back of the store, past the porcelain figurines and carved game sets, there are stacks of oil and ink paintings, varying in subject matter and complexity.
After pawing through the prints, I stop by the New Town Bakery and Restaurant for sustenance. After seeing the menu I decide on a sticky rice roll, wonton soup, baked pork bun, and tea. All of this is under $10 (the soup is the most expensive at around $5), and as the smells of baked honeyed sweetness and savoury sauces waft by the table, I hope that the food tastes as good as it smells. It does: the bun and roll are flaky, soft, and as big as a linebacker’s fist. The soup and tea are warm and filling, and paired together they make the perfect meal for a dreary day.
I set off to one of my absolute favourite stores in the area, Bamboo Village. From electric flowers and polished rosewood, to military communist paraphernalia and old film cameras, the shelves and walls are stacked with items that defy imagination, explanation, and, occasionally, logic. Red tassels drip from the bright lanterns on the ceiling while Bruce Lee, Mao, and cigarette girls pose on nearby posters. Charms and candy are stacked next to paper cloths and silk robes.
The biggest surprise of the trip is the newly opened Chinese Tea Shop. More of a tea boutique, the products are intriguing even to a non-tea drinker such as myself. The staff are knowledgeable and patient, and provide a sample of the products to customers before purchase. In addition to the various loose leaf, bricks, and cakes of tea being sold, small clay teapots and delicate cups are for sale.
From coffee to tea, and from daylight to darkness, Chinatown provided a colourful afternoon, despite the rain. For the sake of curiosity, or for the desire for really good food, Vancouver’s Chinatown shines even through the stormiest of days.
