By Jenny Wong

Vicino Pastaria’s impressive deli selection outshines its eat-in menu

Owners Bill and Allison McCaig of the newly opened Vicino Pastaria bring the same neighbourly atmosphere to Vancouver locals familiar with Vicino’s next-door sibling restaurant, Nicli Antica Pizzeria. Expect a comfortable dining experience, reasonably-priced food with generous proportions, and friendly service.

Upon entering Vicino, a framed menu sits on the wall to your right, and framed pictures to your left, giving off the warm feeling of home. The dining environment is classic, with a modern touch: black chairs and clean lines. Because there are only a few tables for guests to dine in, it is not as suitable for larger groups.

Desserts are all under $7 while entrees and appetizers range from $10 to $15. I had the gnocchi ($15) and the cannoli dessert ($5) packaged in take-out containers. By the time I started the gnocchi, it was still warm. I’ve had gnocchi before, but this time the doughy texture was immediately noticeable; not dry, but a bit on the bland side. The cannoli, a Silician cross between a cream puff and a spring roll, was a fried dough with a light and airy cream filling. The structure of it was fragile; it caved in after a few bites and suddenly got messy.

Vicino also carries a range of packaged pastas and specialty cheeses to take home, including raw milk cheese. The eat-in offerings were limited, with only four dishes of pasta to choose from, though this spot tops my list for small groups and fresh, authentic Italian flavours.