By: Sara Brinkac, Humour Editor
Column title: Dining with sophistication
Author: Reginald Trashpánda III
Restaurant: AQ Koi
Rating: ★★★★★
Location: Academic Quadrangle
Appetiser: Pond weed salad
Entrée: Fresh koi
Dessert: Winter berry cheesecake
Wine: Étang Salé (2011)
With koi as fresh as they are ordered and a seasonal menu based on the best ingredients available each week, AQ Koi is the pinnacle of culinary artistry at SFU. I have reviewed this restaurant since 1983 and while I have never been disappointed, I have never been able to award the restaurant my full five star approval — until now. My readers will trust, of course, that I take this responsibility very seriously and place my entire reputation as this era’s most esteemed food critic on the line when making this claim. But for this restaurant, I gladly will.
What I have always appreciated about AQ Koi is its dedication to fresh, seasonal ingredients. Each menu is prepared a week in advance and the restaurant is open once a week in order to keep the koi population in control. Unlike restaurants such as the abominable Chilcotin 16, AQ Koi is a restaurant that makes the logistics and scheduling of food service an art form.
The meal began with an absolutely delectable pond weed salad — a staple dish of the winter menu. What makes this salad so unique is that the pondweed itself is marinated its entire life in the dressing that is the AQ waters before serving. While this creates a unique taste, for many years I felt the salad was lacking substance. However, now that the AQ pond has reached a bacteria level that is more external droppings than actual water, it has created a one of a kind taste that will only continue to improve with time. The salad proved a promising start to my evening.
The main course which remains the best entrée I have ever had and the namesake of the restaurant, was a beautiful, caught to order, AQ Koi. As the koi took its last breaths, it was placed in my paws and glazed with the finest waste bin juice sourced from Biercraft just hours before dining. While some chefs may stop here, it is the pure creativity and passion for food that pushes AQ Koi head chef Procyon Lotor to take it one step further. The dish is perfectly topped with lemon, capers and a sprig of rosemary boldly retrieved from the DAC.
Finally, the dessert. A masterfully made, and incredibly light plain cheesecake topped with winter berries. I begged Chef Lotor to reveal his sources for what I dare claim is his best dessert to date, but alas, some chefs do not dare part with their proudest secrets.
With the culinary world slipping into the clutches of the vile temptress that is instantaneous gratification, valuing trends over craft, it is easy for an epicurean such as I to fall into deep despair. But it is nights like these I remember why I have dedicated my life to the wonder of cooking and the pleasure of dining. To the wonderful, dedicated, and impassioned staff at AQ Koi, I thank you and look forward to dining with you all for years to come. Five out of five stars. Delicious.
