New Spanish tapas joint in Gastown serves up satisfying but unadventurous appetizers
The Sardine Can is the newest addition to Gastown’s foodie scene, located in the heart of the neighborhood. Pay attention though, because it’s easy to miss. It’s a small restaurant, with a short bar and three long tables; more likely than not, you’ll have to share a table with some neighbors (like sardines in a can, one might say).
Upon being seated, each table receives a glass bottle of agua. For those that need to brush up their Spanish, that’s water. The atmosphere is cozy and comfortable; you feel like you’ve gone out for a nice dinner, but it’s not ostentatious.
On the server’s recommendation, we started with their house special, tostas de sardinas (smoked sardines on toast). It was a pleasant surprise: they weren’t as salty as one would expect from sardines, and the parsley added a nice balance to the rich flavor of the fish. The other items we had were all $10 — too much for the size of a tapas dish for most broke students — and, though they were tasty, they didn’t warrant breaking the bank. The spicy garlic prawns, or gambas al ajillo were nothing of note. They were tasty enough, neither spicy nor garlicky, but a little on the oily side.
Next, we had chicken cooked in a delicious tomato sauce with Moorish spices. Though it was slightly blander than I might have liked, it was nonetheless satisfying.
The hands-down crowning moment of the meal was that day’s special: braised lamb cheek with olives, pine nuts, and dried grapes. The meat was tender in the way that only a good lamb dish can be, and it was the only dish that I would have wanted seconds of.
Some other dishes on the menu were guisado de pulpo (octopus, potato, and chorizo stew) and albondigas (meatballs cooked in tomato and Rioja).
Overall, the food was of high quality, and was very tasty, but played too much on the safe side to be exceptional tapas; full entrees are allowed to play it safe, but with the small amount you get with tapas, each bite should be impressive and bold.
Other than this, the service was exceptional: every single server and staff member was cheery and attentive, making the environment extremely comfortable.
While they accept cards, there’s a 10 per cent discount for anybody paying with cash, so be sure to hit up an ATM on your way.
The Sardine Can is charming and the food is good, but it’s an addition to Vancouver’s culinary scene that you can skip with no loss.
