In 2012, I attempted my third backcountry hiking trip with an ambitious goal. I intended to do the unmarked Donjek route in Yukon’s Kluane National Park.
Upon arrival at the park office, the ranger told me that she would not issue me a park pass because I was unprepared for the Donjek. The reasons were that I had no GPS, emergency beacon, or route plan, and that no one had done that trek alone all year. She then delightfully told me that there was an alternative trail that I could do that would meet all my expectations for wilderness hiking and more in the fabled Yukon.
My possession of bear spray and a bear canister made me eligible for the 85 km Cottonwood Trail, a marked route with no human improvements such as toilets, campsites or bridges.
The first day was spectacular. I hiked up switchbacks alongside a deep blue inlet of the Pacific Ocean flanked by a beautiful mountain which reflected majestically across the water. At its crest, I was treated to an endless expanse of virgin forest untouched by the hand of humankind. My first night was spent watching loons play in the sea on a gravelly beach under the stars. The next day I did my first of several creek crossings. These “creeks” were rushing torrents of water, ice cold and often waist high. I had to strategically and carefully move across them with my poles and plant foot fighting the current.
Day two saw me set up camp at midday in a beautiful river estuary surrounded by mountains and a sheltered bay. As there was no sign of anybody since I began the hike, I decided to roam around the rest of the afternoon in the nude. It was the first time I had ever been naked out in the world and it was exhilarating! After a beautiful fire and spectacular mountain sunset I awoke in the middle of the night to see a beautiful white arc in the night sky.
Day three’s highlight was a grizzly bear sitting on the trail. I had seen evidence of their footprints and scat throughout the trip. Fortunately, it ran away as soon as it saw me. I then descended into a beautiful meadow adorned with moose antlers before another spectacular sunset.
Day four was the most incredible part of the trip.After a tough uphill climb on a hot August Day I reached the ridge and saw three large wolves at extremely close range. I yelled and they immediately bolted.
I spent that night in a beautiful alpine meadow before an easy hike out to the highway the next day, having seen no other people the entirety of the trip. The Cottonwood Trail is the most beautiful place I have ever visited in Canada, and I hope you get the chance to visit it in your lifetime.
