Newly opened on the DTES, Pidgin is worth the visit
By Ljudmila Petrovic
Photos by Patrick Lui / TTLui Photography
Pidgin just opened up on 350 Carrall St. amidst anti-gentrification protests. It is the latest in a string of trendier restaurants and bars that are opening up on the edges of the DTES; Pidgin is especially close to the heart of things, sitting directly across from the infamous Pigeon Park. Because I am a passionate activist for the DTES, I must first clear up that I am strongly opposed to the gentrification that is taking over the area. My moral conflict aside, I cannot rest until I say: go to Pidgin. Just do it.
Everything about Pidgin is done with both quality and simplicity; it is served impeccably without being pretentious. The design of the restaurant is fresh and classy, but the atmosphere is comfortable — perfect for after-work drinks and snacks. I highly recommend sitting at the bar, because all the bartenders and servers are extremely knowledgeable and I guarantee you will become fast friends (though I may be a little too social for my own good).
Their cocktail list is immaculate: the taste is the only thing that beats the aesthetics of the drink. My personal favorites were the Mary Ellen Smith (gin, carbonated sake, lime, and cucumber juice) and the Savage Butcher (tequila, falernum, and chili water). The latter appealed to me because you really feel the burn, but if you’re more inclined to a sweeter cocktail, go for the Earl of Granville (tequila, cardamom cachaca, and egg white) or the Deighton (scotch, raspberry cranberry pepper, port, and rosemary).
The drinks tend to be in the $11–13 range, with the priciest being the Van Horne (bourbon, honey ginger, and carbonated jasmine tea) — recommended by our bartender — at $13.50. A must-have is their soju — a distilled Korean rice liquor that resembles a sweet vodka — that’s brewed in Langley. It’s surprisingly refreshing and palate-cleansing.
In terms of the food, Chef Makoto Ono’s menu is perfect. We started with the creamy sea urchin topped with cauliflower mousse, ponzu jalapeno salsa,
and dashi ($11). I thought that was good, but then we were served the cured steelhead with Asian pear, ginger, and sesame ($19). If you like sashimi, the latter takes it to the next level. Do not miss the foie gras on rice, served with chestnuts, daikon, and an unagi glaze ($20).
It comes with a dab of horseradish on the side, is grown locally and made to order, and it will blow your mind if you’re a fan of horseradish. A heads-up: it’s super spicy, in the best way possible.
For vegetarians out there, there are still some delicious options. Skeptically, I only tried one (the mushrooms with sugar snap peas, egg, and soy yuzu brown butter), and I didn’t regret a single bite. The bartender told us to pay attention to the texture as we ate; he was absolutely spot-on.
The crowning moment for my taste buds was the beef tongue and cheek, topped with broccoli pistou and mustard ($22). If you’re going to get any dish, it’s this one. As my new best friend at the bar worded it: “If it had a bone, it would be falling off of it.” Again, he has yet to be mistaken.
The concept behind Pidgin is simple elegance, and a fusion between Asian tastes and French plating. You will not regret a visit here: the food, cocktails, and atmosphere all collide to make a pleasant outing.
