What is a culture? Various things: customs, food, language, and among many other significant aspects — clothing. Clothing visually represents its people and is shaped by the environment it’s crafted and worn in, in addition to resources and trade with other cultures. For these reasons, cultural clothing speaks to the rich histories of humans. Yet, these same cultural expressions are being taken and repurposed in ways that strip them of their origins.
As a South Asian, I often think about the colourful dresses that are found throughout the subcontinent. From the Osariya variant of the saree in Sri Lanka, to the lehenga choli in India, these items of clothing are iconic. Increasingly, however, these garments are not being worn while respecting their rich history, but are being co-opted into something that deprives them of their origins.
Recently, the brand Reformation released its “blouse and skirt set.” The set drew the condemnation of many online who saw the articles of clothing too closely resembling a lehenga. However, this was not the first time such cultural appropriation has happened in recent history. Last year, the fashion rental brand Bipty tried to whitewash dupattas into “Scandinavian scarves,” (which aren’t really a thing). And one can’t forget the long-term theft of Indigenous clothing, where there are countless examples of sacred cultural motifs being commercialized in a way that does not credit or benefit the original community.
Sadly, appropriation goes beyond clothing, and extends to sacred belief systems. As a Buddhist, I can attest to growing up seeing the Buddha associated with things that had nothing to do with the faith. From Buddha-themed restaurants, to spas, to individual menu items. This idea that Buddhism is “exotic” was first popularized in the West during the early 2000s, along with warped Western interpretations of “zen.” Unfortunately, since then, this fetishized idea of Buddhism has festered, perpetuating the use of the Buddha in places it never should be seen in. For example, Buddhism strongly warns against drinking, and yet there are Buddha-themed bars.
Really, appropriation runs deep, and shows a serious lack of respect and effort to try and to learn about the culture it targets. Unfortunately, the disservice appropriators cause themselves runs even deeper. Think of all that is lost because they refuse to learn about a faith or a culture. What’s even worse is the hypocrisy of it. While marginalized groups often face racist attacks for simply practicing their culture, it can be co-opted and used to appear “exotic” by people who would not face the same level of scrutiny.
Guess what though?
Cultures are not “new.” They’re reflections of people’s values and rich histories. So, if you want to wear clothing or use parts of other cultures, do it respectfully!
